how much is 1 tamiya weathering master set? later i go suntec hobby shop c..

Iirc, mws selling for 10 bucks.

hi..just to share...i tried the same method after searching the web of how to shade without using AB..the diff is i used colour pastels instead of tamiya weathering master..which cost abt $1 or less per stick (if i remember correctly)..

Neat!

Mayb u can do a simple step by step tutorial to share w us here? I.e. Wat brush u using, how much color pastels u using per application etc? Anything to take note of during application etc..

hmm...basically i followed ur instructions...lol..but i realised that applying the shading after a light coat of flat coat is much easier..(since its rougher)
i used an unwanted make-up brush (i've seen daiso selling them for cheap)
the extra step is to sand down the pastel to get the fine particles..

the pastel and brush

the results

what wheathering set did u use for your genoace custom?

A bit confused here on the sequence when you apply the water decals if doing the weathering master shading?
Coz it is recommend we do a gloss coat then add water decals but flat coat more compatiable with weathering master?

So we add water decals first before shading or shading then water decals? I using spray cans.

I was thinking like
paint -> gloss coat-> water decal-> flat coat (better catching the powder?) -> shading -> flat coat again

Is the above the recommended sequence or is there a better way to go about doing this?

Hope my question is not too confusing.

Thanks.

Think its up to individual..

Personal preference, I shade then decal then panel

sliver wrote:Think its up to individual..

Personal preference, I shade then decal then panel

So in between shade, decal and panel you dont add top coat? You finish all these 3 tasks then topcoat? I agreed with you regarding personal preference but just want to see what's everyone workflow like.

Thanks again for this tutorial.

Inbetw I will still topcoat

Personally,
1)After weathering master 'shade', mist topcoat cos can lock in e 'shade'

2)Before decal, gloss topcoat to allow e decal to hav a more even surface to adhere to
After decal I will oso topcoat. After decal I will topcoat to protect e decals fr minor scrayches as well as to prep e surface for enamel panel

3) end off w your desired coat to achieve yr target surface finish

Not sure how other pple do it though

sliver, if I may know, what shading colors you used on this part? gray on the white and soot on the red?

I'm going to try shading soon on my next kits, so I might as well ask what I need to know here before messing up anything...

u can refer to my 1st post
for the white i am using the gray from set E and can't rem for the red though.. either soot from set B or the green from set E, hope it helps

I think I'm going to get the set B and E too... since I'm planning to get a PG Strike Freedom, and the outer armor parts don't have so much details, so I think it might look plain unless I do something. since I don't plan to do heavy mods, maybe shading would make it look better.

thanks for the answer

my weathering kits ordered from HLJ came today, and I noticed that one of the colors have dried, now it looks like small rocks inside the container, instead of shaped like a box inside the container. any idea on what should I do? or just use it as it is? (I think there's no problem, but everytime the container tilted, everything inside would be a mess, so it's kind of annoying).

Try to keep it flat?

For e small stones, I would suggest u use a small spoon to grind it back into powdery state. Bear in mind it might b abit messy during e grinding n those powder will b light so handle w care in case there is wind?
Anyone wanna share their 2cents on this?